How To

Today, there are excellent sources for ready made castings of track plates. However, there may be some of you who would like to make your own links. So here is a basic instruction on how to make them. If you have questions on Tiger tank you can contact me on Tiger tank H E 181

Fig.1 Make a thin wooden box, size depending on scale. Allow 1/2" clearance all round for RTV. Cut out a flat slab of plasticine ( hard, or use clay). Push it into the frame evenly. Allow 1/8th " at bottom to clear tracking lugs. Now push evenly and slowly your master model until it is at the parting level Fig2.With fine strip, level all gaps between clay and the model. Be very neat here. It does not matter if the rest of clay is not even.

Fig.2 With a fine brush apply thin film of petroleum-gel without leaving brush marks. RTV will pick up every detail.
Having done this, mix two parts of RTV as suggested by manufacturer, and slowly pour in, tapping box all the time.
Do not allow any air bubbles. If you get them forming on the top surface , that's fine. Now, leave the mould alone do not move it until it is set hard. Leave it 24 hours for full cure.

Fig.3 Gently split the box ( you will need it in a while) and slowly and very gently remove all the context. Remove the clay / plasticine from the silicone rubber. DO NOT separate mould from the MASTER . With spirit, clean the remains of clay from top surface of silicone mould.

Fig.4 Re-assemble the box around the RTV piece. This time lay the work with master exposed. Again, lightly apply parting gel, and mix fresh batch of RTV and carefully pour the stuff in, lightly gyrating the box and tapping. When satisfied, place on flat surface and leave it till next day.

Fig.5 Finished mould. ready to make 1st casting.


Fig.1	Fig.2	Fig.3	Fig.4	Fig.5

Never be afraid to make a mistake. A mistake can be rectified, and you will not make the same mistake again. A Greek philosopher said " I am not ashamed to make a mistake, but I am ashamed to repeat the same mistake ".

Once I have decided on a model, I go straight into the project and push aside all "technical" procedures, keeping to plain and simple designs. The simpler the design, the better the thing will work. This "go for it", can be done after I have satisfied myself with all research, BEFORE starting a project.

Nothing can be more frustrating, than to find oneself in a situation that makes it impossible to proceed further, because some important detail is missing or is not available. The frustration can be depressing, and can discourage some from getting on with the project.
FIRST, GET ALL THE INFORMATION, MAKE SKETCHES, GATHER ALL PHOTOS AND DATA . This in itself will take a few months.

Avoid the "know all" sites, (except for very few) that use German terminology, without understanding what the word means. This points to the fact that the information passed on is copied from another site parrot fashion. If you need to know a phrase or word, then get a good technical Anglo- German dictionary, or contact a good German site and ask. I have seen sites that are smothered with German phrases, even whole sentences, presumably to impress visitors. If a web site wishes to impress in German, then at least offer a translation in English. The fact remains, that site owner does not understand one single word and is unable to translate.

Avoid expensive and unnecessary electronics and mechanisms. If you build 1/35 or 1/24 model, then there is a vast number of sources from where you will get material. Many people throw away kid’s toys, containing gearboxes. Also, cheap radio control cars etc. This material can be used if you want simple movements.
I have made models that operated on two different frequencies, giving me 8 channels, and extra four movements, by using micro switches to operate other parts of a model.
Another problem is " what shall I use for construction. If you are building from scratch, then the field is yours. I have built tanks in Perspex/acrylic, plastic sheets and plywood. Accessories , gun , mantlet, and muzzle brake in dur-aluminium.

Using Perspex or acrylic sheet, makes it easy to use Methylene Chloride, because it welds parts instantly. But be very careful, because the chemical not only welds instantly, it also softens plastic parts, if not handled properly. This applies only to PLASTIC KITS.

WARNING!

BEFORE USING METHYLENE CHLORIDE, PRACTICE ON SCRAP PIECES, BOTH VERY THIN AND THICK. NEVER START YOUR KIT WITHOUT TESTING THIS CHEMICAL FIRST.

Advantage with Perspex/Acrylic sheet is, that it can be easily turned on a lathe, easily sanded and shaped. Acrylic sheet and rod, is a must, because it saves a lot of time, and gives an excellent finish requiring very little sanding. Both materials can be preheated (WITH CARE) and bent to desired shape. Take a large turret – One piece wall is made from one Perspex piece, heated and formed round a wooden former, whose size is MINUS the thickness of the Perspex/Acrylic plate.

A good variation in material is a quality plywood, which I cover with 1/16^th plastic sheet. It is now possible to apply parts by using liquid glue.

Another thing that puts people off ,is the construction of tracks. It is quite understandable, but with a little patience and thought, one can make a master model of a track link and then make a mould in hard silicone rubber or similar material. If you are building a large-scale tank, then it is "easy".
Consider one major factor- " the cost". To buy a kit 1/6^th or whatever is almost the price of a second hand car. A car is useful. A model tank is a hobby that need not cripple your pocket. There are many casting facilities that will cast anything you need. Even if the track links will cost $ 500.00 or thereabout, and drive sprockets and idler/tracking wheels are thrown in, then you will find that from $ 8,000.00 you can build a tank for as little as $ 2,000.00.

Should you make a static model, with turret and gun animation plus sound effects, then you can cast all road-wheels, drive sprockets and idler wheels including track links, in liquid urethane casting material. This two part, room temperature curing system quickly sets to a rigid (Shore factor D73) solid. It can be tooled, turned, drilled and ground. It can also be pigmented (prior to casting). It is made by Synair and costs about $ 40.00 for 2 litres. That is a lot of casting. Mould can be made from the same company product and Por A Mold will cost about $ 40.00 for 2 litres. This will make a lot of moulds. The compound when set at room temperature sets rigid hard. A medium elasticity compound will cost about $ 48.00 for two litres.

There are many small establishments that deal in copier and printer repairs. Most of them throw away used pars, like geared motors, gears, drive belts and cog wheels. It is cheaper to replace the offending part with new one. The rest is thrown away. Most of such places are more than willing to get rid of the "junk", and will accept a small payment. This can be anything from $ 5.00 - $ 50.00.

You now have electromagnetic clutches, geared motors that require very little current, run on 12V – 24V DC and are continuous rated, . They will also operate on lower voltage giving more than enough power to shift a tank. You also collect some roller chains and sprockets not to mention cog gears and belts of different sizes.
An average time to build a 1/6 or 1/7^th scale model will take anything from 9 to 12 months. Some of my friends take 3 months if not more to build a 1/24^th or 1/35^th scale kit. That is fine, after all it is a hobby and relaxation.

However, I am "building" a tank from scratch and I want to have some results now. This way, I can put either as much detail, or as little to get the desired effect. "That is the secret". If you will never see some part, then don't bother wasting very good time which can be utilized on visible parts.

If it is just to satisfy your "ego", than that’s fine, but think how your wasted time could be put to better use, such as detailing something that is very visible to people.

1) Decide what model of Tiger tank you want. Year, area of operation, season, what Division and Company, also which tank in the Company.
2) Choose basic colours and appropriate camouflage you will apply as a last thing.

3) Always remember that no tank looks identical, and that no matter which tank museum you visit, will ever give you a replica of the factory run out model. All exhibits had been butchered, and " altered". Originally they were for military research, not for future hopeful modelers. Therefore you have to do a lot of digging to be certain that the information received is correct.

Places of research are not always able, or even willing to help, no matter how much you are prepared to pay. I can mention a few establishments that will not even respond to your e-mail. Sadly many such sites are in USA and Europe. Other European private sites do not respond to questions or requests. Such sites should not be on the WWW at all.
It is an old clapped out excuse, -" we are voluntary run organization".

My answer to all such Institutions is - Make yourself popular and friendly, get off your high horse and accept a contribution for a requested subject. If you can not assist, then at least recommend a source that can help". Otherwise get the Hell out from the Web.

I also do not approve of the "Help out financially Sites". When you get into this line of HOBBY -this is not BUSINESS, then work out your budget, otherwise keep your site to few pages . It costs me a small fortune for documents, ( not shown yet due to volume and time) but I consider this a hobby, and if individuals do find use on my site, then I am glad.
The best place to ask for help is The Imperial War Museum- London. Other smaller tank museums in U.K. do not like to respond , at least not to out of England countries. Or you can try SELKE GMBH. in Germany.

"Of course you can always try my CD and have all that information. But that would be priming you. Just thought I would try it."

4) As for RAL- Forget it. You will never get that perfect colour. What you will get, is frustration and headache. Remember, ALL PAINTS FADE or DARKEN with time.

Now, go on and look for your RAL, and make the experts happy and enjoy your headache.
If you are completely bent on destroying your brain then go to RAL site http://www.ral.de/farben/

An intelligent alternative is to use your head and go ahead with your dream tank. Enjoy your work, have fun and let the "experts" fight who is right or wrong. Museums do not have precise answers. and even if they do, then they are reluctant to respond.

With these thoughts in mind I will let you start your Tiger 1 E project. Good Luck.

Final answer to many requests : Michael Wittmann's Tiger. If reader has got so far, then here are the dates and tank numbers. As far as I know Wittmann's first Tiger was in 1943. It belonged to SS.Pz. Abt. 101 Number 1331- Italy. October 1943 : Eastern Front, and his early version tank Tiger E was # S21. June 1944 late Tiger E, # 205. In 1944 ( Caen area) , he received new and last Tiger E # 007, of the 2nd Company - Heavy Panzer Detachment 101 of LSSAH.